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M-250r2 mouted and open.
Showing the internals. The Yardblaster ballast, the Phillips lamp, The slipfitter.
Keywords: American_Streetlights

M-250r2 mouted and open.

Showing the internals. The Yardblaster ballast, the Phillips lamp, The slipfitter.

DSCN0009.jpg DSCN0011.jpg DSCN0013.jpg DSCN0016.jpg light~0.jpg
File information
Filename:DSCN0013.jpg
Album name:Lil'Cinnamon / My Lights
Keywords:American_Streetlights
Company and Date Manufactured:General Electric
Model Number:M-250r2
Wattage:70w
Lamp Type:High Pressure Sodium.
Filesize:83 KiB
Date added:Feb 27, 2011
Dimensions:800 x 600 pixels
Displayed:98 times
Color Space:sRGB
Contrast:0
DateTime Original:2011:02:26 23:45:44
Exposure Bias:0 EV
Exposure Mode:0
Exposure Program:Program
Exposure Time:1/125 sec
FNumber:f/3.4
Flash:No Flash
Focal length:7.9 mm
ISO:100
Light Source:Unknown: 0
Make:Nikon
Max Aperture:f/3.2
Model:COOLPIX S51
URL:http://www.galleryoflights.org/mb/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=5227
Favorites:Add to Favorites

Comment 4 to 23 of 23
Page: 1 - 2

TiCoune66   [Feb 27, 2011 at 09:36 PM]
Not to have grounding is dangerous period LOL XD
GullWhiz   [Feb 27, 2011 at 09:51 PM]
That's true....but look at this...why is most of our today's indoor table lamps does not have grounding, but ALL of the modern outdoor equipments, supplies, lighting all have grounding Wink but yes its more dangerous...so this above is totally UNEXCEPTIONABLE! Even outdoor porch incandescent fixtures outer casings are connected to the grounding!
TiCoune66   [Feb 27, 2011 at 11:13 PM]
True. But on many ungrounded devices it wouldn't hurt to add one. On double-insulated device it's fine, but others often have exposed ungrounded metallic parts.
GullWhiz   [Feb 27, 2011 at 11:53 PM]
Basically Durastar is the ONLY one common and basic American streetlight that doesn't need to be grounded Laughing Razz
Form109   [Feb 28, 2011 at 12:01 AM]
i once used a timer for an outdoor light.....the timer was the clock part off a modern microwave that just died...the timer was indoors however.
LilCinnamon   [Feb 28, 2011 at 01:14 AM]
The timer is under the roof, On the deck there is a portion which is covered completely. So nothing gets to the timer.
gailgrove   [Feb 28, 2011 at 01:15 AM]
That still doesn't ground the light Confused
GullWhiz   [Feb 28, 2011 at 01:15 AM]
No its still not good either........because of dew, and other causes....
streetlight98   [Mar 01, 2011 at 11:17 PM]
Just run a wire from the fixture casing to the ground. Very Happy
GullWhiz   [Mar 02, 2011 at 01:38 AM]
No you can't really do that.....it's not the same.........and the main panel is actually connected two 2 groundings, and you have no IDEA how deep the metal rod is! so you should do it properly!!!
TiCoune66   [Mar 02, 2011 at 01:51 AM]
A grounding rod is more than 10ft long!

BTW, you could TECHNICALLY run a #6 AWG bare copper wire or bigger. But the fixture has to be grounded to the main panel in one way or another anyway...
GullWhiz   [Mar 02, 2011 at 02:39 AM]
Also a grounding rod is to be properly straight down...not at an angle...

Vince you sure do know your electrical edcuation! Good Job!

Yeah the fixture has to be grounded to the main panel....
TiCoune66   [Mar 02, 2011 at 02:48 AM]
Well there are a few cases where can absolutely not insert the rod all the way. Back when he was a contractor, one of my teachers often had no choice but to insert it with a 45° angle, even completely horizontal in some cases! The most important is to have the WHOLE rod length in low-resistance ground. The absolutely worst thing to do is to cut it! :C

And here the Electrical Code states you must have at least TWO ground rods! They must be at a certain distance from each other, but I don't remember that distance. It's something like 8 or 12ft or so. And they must be connected together with ONE single wire.
GullWhiz   [Mar 02, 2011 at 03:18 AM]
Most cases in the USA we have one ground rod bonded to the electrical box and another to the copper water pipes (in a speicific way as said in the electrical code)

But I'm not sure of all the codes today since plastic water pipes are starting to be used more due to cheaper prices....and expensive copper...
TiCoune66   [Mar 02, 2011 at 03:41 AM]
Ah you connect to BOTH? Interesting. Over here the water pipe is mostly considered a cheap way to avoid ground rods. It is still allowed to ground the main panel on the water pipe only, since it also makes a loooooong copper ground rod (often 25ft+), but apparently it's not the greatest idea. It would cause problems with oxidation or release of copper oxide in water, or something along the lines of that.

I don't have the new 2010 CEC yet, but it seems they soon want to phase out the water pipe grounding in favor of a more appropriate [Main panel -> Ground rod -> Ground rod] setup. I guess the copper phase-out you mentioned would have something to do with this as well.
GullWhiz   [Mar 02, 2011 at 04:36 AM]
Just a quick tip....NEVER use gas pipes as a grounding ever!!!
Form109   [Mar 02, 2011 at 05:56 AM]
if for no other reason than just that....its a gas pipe,definetly dont want any current near that.
LilCinnamon   [Mar 02, 2011 at 07:58 AM]
OTHER than the wiring, How is the internals of the light?
GullWhiz   [Mar 02, 2011 at 04:50 PM]
Internals looks acceptable, one important thing is to use the least wire nuts as possible.....for example...if you are using wire nuts because 2 wires are too short...it's better to get one long wire and connect them than connecting 2 wires with a wire nut...but if the wires are permanently connected to the ballast..then it's OK to use wire nut....The ballast mount looks a bit funny, but looks OK, I have seen something like that from retrofits and stuff.....I personally like the OVS and the L-150 ballast mount the best..

I wonder where NiMo is....he makes the best wiring and ballast mounting advices.....
LilCinnamon   [Mar 02, 2011 at 08:25 PM]
Well the yardblaster ballast kind of used wirenuts. Most of the clutter of wires is hidden by the Reflector. xD When I get a new photocell socket from you It would be wired in a better way.

Comment 4 to 23 of 23
Page: 1 - 2