That's true....but look at this...why is most of our today's indoor table lamps does not have grounding, but ALL of the modern outdoor equipments, supplies, lighting all have grounding but yes its more dangerous...so this above is totally UNEXCEPTIONABLE! Even outdoor porch incandescent fixtures outer casings are connected to the grounding!
True. But on many ungrounded devices it wouldn't hurt to add one. On double-insulated device it's fine, but others often have exposed ungrounded metallic parts.
No you can't really do that.....it's not the same.........and the main panel is actually connected two 2 groundings, and you have no IDEA how deep the metal rod is! so you should do it properly!!!
BTW, you could TECHNICALLY run a #6 AWG bare copper wire or bigger. But the fixture has to be grounded to the main panel in one way or another anyway...
Well there are a few cases where can absolutely not insert the rod all the way. Back when he was a contractor, one of my teachers often had no choice but to insert it with a 45° angle, even completely horizontal in some cases! The most important is to have the WHOLE rod length in low-resistance ground. The absolutely worst thing to do is to cut it! :C
And here the Electrical Code states you must have at least TWO ground rods! They must be at a certain distance from each other, but I don't remember that distance. It's something like 8 or 12ft or so. And they must be connected together with ONE single wire.
Most cases in the USA we have one ground rod bonded to the electrical box and another to the copper water pipes (in a speicific way as said in the electrical code)
But I'm not sure of all the codes today since plastic water pipes are starting to be used more due to cheaper prices....and expensive copper...
Ah you connect to BOTH? Interesting. Over here the water pipe is mostly considered a cheap way to avoid ground rods. It is still allowed to ground the main panel on the water pipe only, since it also makes a loooooong copper ground rod (often 25ft+), but apparently it's not the greatest idea. It would cause problems with oxidation or release of copper oxide in water, or something along the lines of that.
I don't have the new 2010 CEC yet, but it seems they soon want to phase out the water pipe grounding in favor of a more appropriate [Main panel -> Ground rod -> Ground rod] setup. I guess the copper phase-out you mentioned would have something to do with this as well.
Internals looks acceptable, one important thing is to use the least wire nuts as possible.....for example...if you are using wire nuts because 2 wires are too short...it's better to get one long wire and connect them than connecting 2 wires with a wire nut...but if the wires are permanently connected to the ballast..then it's OK to use wire nut....The ballast mount looks a bit funny, but looks OK, I have seen something like that from retrofits and stuff.....I personally like the OVS and the L-150 ballast mount the best..
I wonder where NiMo is....he makes the best wiring and ballast mounting advices.....
Well the yardblaster ballast kind of used wirenuts. Most of the clutter of wires is hidden by the Reflector. xD When I get a new photocell socket from you It would be wired in a better way.
BTW, you could TECHNICALLY run a #6 AWG bare copper wire or bigger. But the fixture has to be grounded to the main panel in one way or another anyway...
Vince you sure do know your electrical edcuation! Good Job!
Yeah the fixture has to be grounded to the main panel....
And here the Electrical Code states you must have at least TWO ground rods! They must be at a certain distance from each other, but I don't remember that distance. It's something like 8 or 12ft or so. And they must be connected together with ONE single wire.
But I'm not sure of all the codes today since plastic water pipes are starting to be used more due to cheaper prices....and expensive copper...
I don't have the new 2010 CEC yet, but it seems they soon want to phase out the water pipe grounding in favor of a more appropriate [Main panel -> Ground rod -> Ground rod] setup. I guess the copper phase-out you mentioned would have something to do with this as well.
I wonder where NiMo is....he makes the best wiring and ballast mounting advices.....