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Proposed Location for New Street Light Installation
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When spring arrives and all the snow in the backyard melts (this picture is old from over a year ago) I'm going to ask my dad if I can mount a light off the shed. I will use one of my 30" upsweep aluminum arms with this installation. The arm will be bolted to a block, which will be screwed into two of the shed's wall studs. Obviously four little screws won't be enough, so the block will also have two 3/8" or 1/2" carriage bolts going through it (on either side of the mounting arm) and they will also go through another identical block on the inside of the shed, which will also be screwed to the same two studs as the outer one. The blocks, studs, and carriage bolts will work together to create a snug mount. A section of block will also go under the block on the inside between the studs so that the inside and outside blocks won't be over-tightened. The outside block will have caulking applied around it to ensure a watertight seal.
Now that I explained all the mechanical, now the electrical:
There will be a single-gang PVC junction box screwed onto the outside of the shed wall under the fixture mounting location. It will be around 3 or 4ft off the ground (I will make it the same height as the ones on my house are; whatever that is). The box will have a duplex receptacle for convenience. The duplex receptacle will also service as a terminal block for the splice that will be made. Extending out the bottom of the box will be a grounded extension cord, cut to a foot or two. To power this set-up, the set-up will be plugged into an extension cord that will run across the yard, eliminating the need to run an underground feed. Extending from the top of the box will be 3/4" PVC (the actual diameter will be 3/4", so probably will be called 1/2" since the pipe sizes are always wrong when they list diameter...). The PVC will have a coupling at the top, where a liquid-tight flexible conduit elbow will be attached. That will extend about halfway up the mounting arm to [see below:]
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![Proposed Location for New Street Light Installation
When spring arrives and all the snow in the backyard melts (this picture is old from over a year ago) I'm going to ask my dad if I can mount a light off the shed. I will use one of my 30" upsweep aluminum arms with this installation. The arm will be bolted to a block, which will be screwed into two of the shed's wall studs. Obviously four little screws won't be enough, so the block will also have two 3/8" or 1/2" carriage bolts going through it (on either side of the mounting arm) and they will also go through another identical block on the inside of the shed, which will also be screwed to the same two studs as the outer one. The blocks, studs, and carriage bolts will work together to create a snug mount. A section of block will also go under the block on the inside between the studs so that the inside and outside blocks won't be over-tightened. The outside block will have caulking applied around it to ensure a watertight seal.
Now that I explained all the mechanical, now the electrical:
There will be a single-gang PVC junction box screwed onto the outside of the shed wall under the fixture mounting location. It will be around 3 or 4ft off the ground (I will make it the same height as the ones on my house are; whatever that is). The box will have a duplex receptacle for convenience. The duplex receptacle will also service as a terminal block for the splice that will be made. Extending out the bottom of the box will be a grounded extension cord, cut to a foot or two. To power this set-up, the set-up will be plugged into an extension cord that will run across the yard, eliminating the need to run an underground feed. Extending from the top of the box will be 3/4" PVC (the actual diameter will be 3/4", so probably will be called 1/2" since the pipe sizes are always wrong when they list diameter...). The PVC will have a coupling at the top, where a liquid-tight flexible conduit elbow will be attached. That will extend about halfway up the mounting arm to [see below:]
Keywords: Miscellaneous](albums/userpics/normal_041514_005~0.JPG "Proposed Location for New Street Light Installation
When spring arrives and all the snow in the backyard melts (this picture is old from over a year ago) I'm going to ask my dad if I can mount a light off the shed. I will use one of my 30\" upsweep aluminum arms with this installation. The arm will be bolted to a block, which will be screwed into two of the shed's wall studs. Obviously four little screws won't be enough, so the block will also have two 3/8\" or 1/2\" carriage bolts going through it (on either side of the mounting arm) and they will also go through another identical block on the inside of the shed, which will also be screwed to the same two studs as the outer one. The blocks, studs, and carriage bolts will work together to create a snug mount. A section of block will also go under the block on the inside between the studs so that the inside and outside blocks won't be over-tightened. The outside block will have caulking applied around it to ensure a watertight seal.
Now that I explained all the mechanical, now the electrical:
There will be a single-gang PVC junction box screwed onto the outside of the shed wall under the fixture mounting location. It will be around 3 or 4ft off the ground (I will make it the same height as the ones on my house are; whatever that is). The box will have a duplex receptacle for convenience. The duplex receptacle will also service as a terminal block for the splice that will be made. Extending out the bottom of the box will be a grounded extension cord, cut to a foot or two. To power this set-up, the set-up will be plugged into an extension cord that will run across the yard, eliminating the need to run an underground feed. Extending from the top of the box will be 3/4\" PVC (the actual diameter will be 3/4\", so probably will be called 1/2\" since the pipe sizes are always wrong when they list diameter...). The PVC will have a coupling at the top, where a liquid-tight flexible conduit elbow will be attached. That will extend about halfway up the mounting arm to [see below:]
Keywords: Miscellaneous")
The lights that will not be mounted are the M-250R1s, the OV-15 TuDor FCO, or the M-400 split door since they're NOS lights (well, the OV-15TD had so much work put into restoring it that I don't have the heart to put it back out in the elements lol.)
As for my existing installation, I'm thinking about putting up the 1964 M-400 for Marco for pictures and too see what it looks like. It won't be wired up though since there's no capacitor inside the fixture (light won't work right, and the slip-on terminals on the ends of the leads are just floating around in the fixture so the fixture would be live. I'll probably connect it to the cord and then install an open cap so that if I forget and somehow the fixture ends up being plugged in, nothing will happen.