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1968 M-400 Terminal Block
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I did a little rewiring. The far left is the 120V input to the ballast, second terminal is a splice point for the capacitor and lamp lead (instead of using a wirenut). The third terminal is for ground connection. The far right is for the neutral. The Advance ballast comes with two "common" wires. One is supposed to be line common and the other the lamp common. I simplified the wiring by connecting both ballast commons to the terminal as well as the socket shell wire to eliminate using a wirenut. Therefore, there are no wirenuts in the fixture. I also stripped a bit of the excess wire for a cleaner appearance and coiled and zip-tied the unused voltage tap leads on the ballast. I dressed them in the fixture so that they can easily be connected to the far left terminal if for some reason I did decide to change the voltage.
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Interesting that the M-400 used a completely different terminal block compared to the M-250. I wonder why did GE use this odd one with integral socket shrould.
Normally with a PC socket, the far left would be PC black, 2nd would be PC red and ballast input, and far right would be common. In this case with no PC, the far left would be ballast input, 2nd empty, 3rd empty, and far right common. The only time all four terminals would be used is with a 240V ballast with 120V PC, in which case PC hot is far left, 2nd is PC red and ballast input, 3rd is ballast line connection, 4th is PC neutral. I like to use the empty block when present for a ground connection. So far, any 240V lights I've gotten I've converted them to 120V PC sockets. I do this to make it all uniform across my collection so I don't inadvertently stick a 120V PC on a light wired for straight 240V. I did this to my AE 13, OV-15, and two M-100s, which were all straight 240V.
Ahh, I think my Crimefighter more or less follows that convention. For the grounds I either use a empty block or install a grounding lug
to a tapped hole on the housing and then attach the ground there. If a fixture has the neutral tied to ground like my R47, I remove it before adding a real ground. The PC I always wire to the same voltage as ballast voltage since all my lights are 120v only or multi tap wired for 120v. If I get a 240v light I might rewire the PC socket for 120v since almost all of my PCs are 120v only. I think I have a 120-277v PC somewhere. If I ever get something like a 277v, 347v, or 480v single light I'd probably just replace the ballast to a 120v one lol.
Ah yeah my preferred method is to run a pigtail from the terminal block to a screw in the fixture but if there's no free terminal block position I just connect the ground right to a screw in the housing or connect a loose wire to the screw and wirenut the ground.
Ahh so they made the Form 400 until the mid 60s. I guess this explains why in old pictures of Toronto I see clamshells installed well into the 60s. Toronto had a lot of remote ballasted mercs in the suburbs back then.