Eh. I think the M-250R1 looks the best on the pole... The OVC was a PITA to mount too, though mounting any light on this is hard since you need to open the door to mmake sure the pipe goes in the slipfitter yet the door needs to on the fixture becuase once the fixture is mounted, you can't install/remove the door since there's not enough clearance.
The R1 is easier since it's a 2-bolt fitter. It's actually easier when the bolts are inside the fixture since i need to get a stool to tighten the bolts or loosen them on the R1. The door still needs to be open though when i slide the light over the pipe. I take off the refractor so reduce the weight and so if the door falls off i don't loose a refractor. I'm going to leave the R1 up until i get the OV-15TD FCO from Joe M. Then i'll stick that on this for a little while. the ciruit breaker tripped while this light was installed, though it was shut off when it tripped becuase i was takign it down. It had removed the wires from the terminal block (i had left it plugged in but the switch was off so there was no power). Weird... lol.
I found out that the breaker for the outlet is my room is an AFCI (arc-fault ciruit interupter) so when the neutral and gound touch, the breaker switch. since it was plugged in and the switch was off, the hot was off but the neutral and ground are still "live" so the neutral must have touched the fixture, connecting it to ground, and tripping the circuit breaker. I always unplug the stand now and i've never had the same problem. i don't see how the neutral and ground touching can be bad though since electrically they're equal...
Well what if someone miswired something so the neutral was hot or something? I'm not familiar with the whole neutral-ground thing either. On boats it makes a HUGE difference, though. Apparently the saltwater, brass through-hull fittings, etc. create a battery of sorts and if things aren't right you can have the electrolysis attacking things like nails in the hull of a wood boat, etc. To get around this you put pieces of zinc on the bottom of your boat. They're sacraficial...the electrolysis will attack them first.
if the polarity was reversed i don't think it would matter unless the neutral wire was used to ground the fixture (which was common before the actual ground wire came out) which in that case the metal parts of the fixture would be electrified.
Hmm I didn't know that about boats. i just figured the electricity derived from a battery and the motor similar to an automobile.
On small boats, yes, but not on my 72 footer...in my little 16' skiff yeah there's just a car battery for a bilge pump (let's see if you can guess what that is) and the power tilt and electric start on the outboard motor.
BTW in a crowded boat harbor if you have some electrical leak going you can fry everyone else's zincs, propellers, etc as well.
ahh i see. and no i don't know what a bilge pump is lol. interesting that you can fry someone elses boat though it makes sense since water conducts electricity.
The bilge is essentially the bottom of the inside of any boat so yeah water will collect there hence it has to be pumped out of course.
Yeah like I said something about the saltwater and metal...I'm honestly not sure what it is though.
ahh i see. isn't the boat supposed to be water-tight though? is that why large boats always have water pouring out of pipes in the side? i thought it was waste water.
Well they are to a certain extent. But remember, with wood boat some always finds it's way in...
There's all sorts of reasons for water to be pouring out of through-hull fittings...
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Hmm I didn't know that about boats. i just figured the electricity derived from a battery and the motor similar to an automobile.
BTW in a crowded boat harbor if you have some electrical leak going you can fry everyone else's zincs, propellers, etc as well.
Yeah like I said something about the saltwater and metal...I'm honestly not sure what it is though.
There's all sorts of reasons for water to be pouring out of through-hull fittings...