I got my light in today. The previous owner did NOT have a ballast in it, they had a mogul to medium adapter GLUED AND SEALED into the socket, and the socket wasn't even ATTACHED to the metal piece! They just had two wire-bunchers on the wires to the socket holding it in. The photocell socket wires were cut and so were the socket wires.
So I did some work on it. I kept the photocell bypassed though. I put a 100 watt T&B ballast in it, I used that wire-plug from the wallpack and used it in here.
It was full of dead bugs as well. But now it is clean, It looks nice now!
I will show you some pics. xD I didn't take any BEFORE I did the modifications.
And here is the description he had on ebay:
"Hello and thanks for viewing my auction. For sale today is a very nice American-Electric brand metal street light that we have used to light up our back yard for one year. It still retains its factory-painted gray color with I.D. sticker on the door. It does include a polycarbonate lens, which has NO cracks, chips, or breaks. It also has wiring options for a photo sensor, which IS included in the auction. The inside of the fixture is basically brand new--the reflector still retains it shiny finish. The ballast has been removed and this light operates with a standard household bulb, I currently have a 200 watt bright-white bulb in it, see pictures. It lights just fine, and is hooked up by regular house wire to a switch in the garage. It took me about 10 minutes to hook it up and turn it on. This light is ready to go and will get the job done. The only reason we're selling it is because we're getting a new barn. A ballast can be installed very easily back into the light if needed as well. Thanks for viewing and have a great day. "
First of all, the light was LIKE NEW? Noooot. It was filled with dead bugs inside and the paint is starting to fade.
And "A ballast can be installed very easily back into thelight if needed" NOT REALLY. It took me awhile to set it up! And also it didn't come with the plugs in it for it to be Powr Door, even though I had one from that Lithonia Wallpack.
But overall nice light. I wish he kept the ballast in it though. xD He was using a 200 watt incandescent? He should of used the original 100 watt HPS because IT USES LESS ENERGY. xD
Hmm. At least you still like it. A good tip I have is if a certain part of the light isn't pictured or described or you feel as if something wasn't described well enough, ask a question about it. I guess since it's too late now all you can do is leave bad feedback for "item as described". The photocell socket is always a key thing I look for when I want/get a light. If it's internally ballasted and it doesn't have a PC socket or the option for one, I'll pass on it no matter what the brand or model. I'm not sure why but I'm just that way lol.
I've always bypassed my PC sockets since I never got the point on using a PC on indoor streetlights, and plus the keeping the PC in prevents the fixture from lying down.
Actually I lied about the paint, the paint is still in excellent condition it just has lots of dirt on it. xD The paint on top might have some nicks on it but it's not too bad.
@ Joe; only my fisher peirce PC can sense indoor light levels anyways and I never have a problem resting my lights refractor side up with a PC installed. Not even the intermatic one. The reason why I want a PC receptacle is more so for the look since street lights on wood poles have PCs. Also, I want the PC wired up so if I need to use that function I can. The rest of the time I usually either use an unsensitive PC or a shorting cap.
Ahh I see, I usually store and run my lights upside down so the PC kinda gets in the way. I might wire the socket back in and install shorting caps when I order new PC sockets for my lights though.
If you can't get a shorting cap (I don't have any real shorting caps, I just modified my open cap and I have a dayburning ripley sunswitch from '88 ) you can buy a cheap low profile PC at Lowe's and drop it down a flight of stairs. I either run my lights right side up with the refractor resting on the tile floor or like how you described. Depends if I want to view the lamp warming up or if I'd rather see how the light looks lit up.
They actually took the entire ballast out! Like I said how I got this it was set up extremely tacky. The package included a photocell but that's it.
I am glad they left the screws that hold the ballast IN the screw holes on the door. Cause if they didn't I most likely wouldn't have been able to put the ballast back in, but I might of had extra screws.
But I like the light overall. Still in great condition.
I wonder why did they get rid of the ballast...was it because the ignitor died or if they can't find 100w HPS lamps or was it because they didn't like the HPS colour.
They probably thought the HPS lamp were to pricey. Can PSMH lamps be operated on HPS ballasts of the same wattage if a PSMH ignior is put in or visa versa>
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So I did some work on it. I kept the photocell bypassed though. I put a 100 watt T&B ballast in it, I used that wire-plug from the wallpack and used it in here.
It was full of dead bugs as well. But now it is clean, It looks nice now!
And here is the description he had on ebay:
"Hello and thanks for viewing my auction. For sale today is a very nice American-Electric brand metal street light that we have used to light up our back yard for one year. It still retains its factory-painted gray color with I.D. sticker on the door. It does include a polycarbonate lens, which has NO cracks, chips, or breaks. It also has wiring options for a photo sensor, which IS included in the auction. The inside of the fixture is basically brand new--the reflector still retains it shiny finish. The ballast has been removed and this light operates with a standard household bulb, I currently have a 200 watt bright-white bulb in it, see pictures. It lights just fine, and is hooked up by regular house wire to a switch in the garage. It took me about 10 minutes to hook it up and turn it on. This light is ready to go and will get the job done. The only reason we're selling it is because we're getting a new barn. A ballast can be installed very easily back into the light if needed as well. Thanks for viewing and have a great day. "
First of all, the light was LIKE NEW? Noooot. It was filled with dead bugs inside and the paint is starting to fade.
And "A ballast can be installed very easily back into thelight if needed" NOT REALLY. It took me awhile to set it up! And also it didn't come with the plugs in it for it to be Powr Door, even though I had one from that Lithonia Wallpack.
But overall nice light. I wish he kept the ballast in it though. xD He was using a 200 watt incandescent? He should of used the original 100 watt HPS because IT USES LESS ENERGY. xD
I guess they bypassed the ballast and stuck a CFL inside?
I will get a picture of it soon, and yes Joe that is the auction I bought from. xD How did you find it?
Also a funny thing the light was located in Ohio and I am HEADING To Ohio this Thursday.
The light is in excellent condition though! I wonder how the guy GOT the light.. xD
Actually I lied about the paint, the paint is still in excellent condition it just has lots of dirt on it. xD The paint on top might have some nicks on it but it's not too bad.
I am glad they left the screws that hold the ballast IN the screw holes on the door. Cause if they didn't I most likely wouldn't have been able to put the ballast back in, but I might of had extra screws.
But I like the light overall. Still in great condition.