Yeah, I remember this pic too. My garage look like that when I fire up my modified yardlight fixture. This is OT but it looks like you collect road signs too.
Hey Jace, how did you make this. I mean, what demensions is the wooden box, what's inside the box (i'm assuming some sort of weights?). I'm planning to make a set up like this with a 15A outlet and two switches and it'll have a cord that plugs in. one switch will be for the cobrahead and the other switch will be for a 175W MV ballast mounted inside the box so when i swap out lights, if i decide to put up the OV-25, i can use the second switch and make the OV-25 MV by simply switching which wires connect to the OV-25.
There will be a piece of romex running up the conduit pole to the light that is for internally ballasted lights. It will connect to switch A. Then there will be additional individual wires that will be just for the OV-25 and will connect to the ballast and switch B. Then the outlet will have continuous power. So i have the wiring all figured out but any tips on the design of the wooden base itself? I was thinking 12" wide, 18" in length (length meaning coming out at you when looking at it from the front, so the side panels are 18" long) and 24-30" tall. I have a curved 1 1/2" EMT elbow so i was thinking, get a 6ft 1 1/2" straight section and a bracket to attach them together and that's the 7ft mini davit pole, leaving an extra foot of clearance so i can mount lights and have space from the ceiling still. Also, the EMT pole will attatch to the bottom of the box, not the top. I was also thinking of adding a hatch of some sort on the top so the wiring and everything can be access without dismantling the whole box.
Anyways, thanks for any tips/advice and input from anyone!
The box didn't have any weights.....the box itself was heavy....but I did have a small ballast inside this thing
But if you are having a cobrahead....I suggest the box be longer than the length of the arm AND fixture together....or put weights in but make sure box is long enough with weights that's heavier than the fixture
BTW, I had already made mine now. The box is 24" tall, 18" long, and 12" wide. You can check it out here. Originally, the A switch was wired for the 120V feed to the light and the B switch was wired for the 175W remote ballast heading up to the light. But I didn't want to remote ballast wired up in there so now there's only one circuit going up to the fixture, the 120V mains. So now the A switch controls the street light and the B switch controls the duplex outlet. So the outlet can be controlled by a switch! The outlet is great for me plugging in my laptop charger or if I want to plug something else in i can too. It's fully standalone too, basically a massive industrial floor lamp.
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There will be a piece of romex running up the conduit pole to the light that is for internally ballasted lights. It will connect to switch A. Then there will be additional individual wires that will be just for the OV-25 and will connect to the ballast and switch B. Then the outlet will have continuous power. So i have the wiring all figured out but any tips on the design of the wooden base itself? I was thinking 12" wide, 18" in length (length meaning coming out at you when looking at it from the front, so the side panels are 18" long) and 24-30" tall. I have a curved 1 1/2" EMT elbow so i was thinking, get a 6ft 1 1/2" straight section and a bracket to attach them together and that's the 7ft mini davit pole, leaving an extra foot of clearance so i can mount lights and have space from the ceiling still. Also, the EMT pole will attatch to the bottom of the box, not the top. I was also thinking of adding a hatch of some sort on the top so the wiring and everything can be access without dismantling the whole box.
Anyways, thanks for any tips/advice and input from anyone!
But if you are having a cobrahead....I suggest the box be longer than the length of the arm AND fixture together....or put weights in but make sure box is long enough with weights that's heavier than the fixture